What Is Uncaria Gambir Extract?
Uncaria Gambir Extract, also known as Gambir Catechu or simply Gambir, is derived from the leaves and young shoots of the Uncaria gambier plant, which belongs to the Rubiaceae family. This extract is rich in resin acids, their esters, terpenes, and various oxidation or polymerization products of these terpenes. These chemical constituents contribute to its primary function in cosmetics as an astringent.
Historically, Gambir has been used for centuries in traditional medicine, particularly in Southeast Asia, where it was employed for its medicinal properties, including wound healing and digestive aid. Its astringent properties made it a natural choice for treating various skin conditions. Over time, the cosmetic industry recognized these benefits and began incorporating Uncaria Gambir Extract into skincare formulations to help tighten and tone the skin.
The extraction process of Uncaria Gambir involves harvesting the leaves and young shoots of the plant, which are then boiled in water. The resulting decoction is concentrated and allowed to cool, forming a solid mass that is further processed to obtain the extract. This method ensures that the beneficial compounds are preserved, making the extract effective for its intended cosmetic use.
The Benefits/Uses of Uncaria Gambir Extract
In this section, we will delve into the officially recognized cosmetic benefits and uses of Uncaria Gambir Extract:
Astringent Properties
Uncaria Gambir Extract is primarily known for its astringent properties. In the world of cosmetics, an astringent is a substance that can contract skin tissues and reduce the secretion of oils. This makes it particularly beneficial for individuals with oily or acne-prone skin. By tightening the skin and minimizing the appearance of pores, it can help create a smoother, more refined complexion. Additionally, its ability to reduce oiliness can contribute to a less shiny, more matte finish on the skin.
Note: the listed benefits above are exclusively based on the officially recognized and defined functions of the ingredient, as documented by the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI).
Potential Side Effects & Other Considerations
Uncaria Gambir Extract is generally considered safe for topical application in cosmetic products. However, as with any ingredient, there are potential side effects and considerations to keep in mind:
- Skin irritation
- Redness
- Allergic reactions
Regarding individuals who are pregnant or breastfeeding, data and research on the topical usage of Uncaria Gambir Extract during pregnancy and breastfeeding are lacking. Therefore, it is recommended to consult a healthcare professional for further advice.
Side effects and adverse reactions from Uncaria Gambir Extract are relatively uncommon. However, it is always prudent to conduct a patch test before widespread usage to ensure there is no adverse reaction.
On a comedogenicity scale of 0 to 5, Uncaria Gambir Extract is rated as a 1, meaning it has a low likelihood of clogging pores. This makes it generally suitable for individuals prone to acne, blemishes, or breakouts, although individual reactions can vary.