Article last updated: October 15, 2024
Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate, also known by its chemical name Olean-12-en-29-oic acid, 3-hydroxy-11-oxo-, octadecyl ester, (3.beta.,20.beta.), is a fascinating ingredient derived from the root of the licorice plant (Glycyrrhiza glabra). In the world of cosmetics, it’s primarily recognized for its skin conditioning and soothing properties. This ingredient is often found in a variety of skincare products, including creams, lotions, and serums, aimed at providing relief and comfort to the skin.
The history of Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate in cosmetics is quite interesting. Licorice root has been used for centuries in traditional medicine for its anti-inflammatory and soothing properties. Over time, scientists identified glycyrrhetinic acid, a key component of licorice root, as the active ingredient responsible for these benefits. By esterifying glycyrrhetinic acid with stearyl alcohol, they created Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate, a more stable and lipid-soluble form that is easier to incorporate into cosmetic formulations.
The production of Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate involves a chemical process where glycyrrhetinic acid is reacted with stearyl alcohol. This esterification process enhances the ingredient’s ability to blend seamlessly into oil-based formulations, making it a versatile addition to various skincare products. The result is a compound that not only retains the beneficial properties of licorice root but also offers improved stability and efficacy in topical applications.
In this section, we will delve into the officially recognized cosmetic benefits and uses of Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate:
Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate is primarily known for its skin conditioning properties. This means it helps to maintain the skin’s softness, suppleness, and overall health. When included in cosmetic formulations, it can enhance the texture and feel of the skin, making it smoother and more hydrated. This is particularly beneficial for individuals with dry or rough skin, as it can provide much-needed moisture and improve the skin’s appearance.
Another significant benefit of Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate is its soothing effect on the skin. This ingredient can help calm irritated or sensitive skin, reducing redness and discomfort. It’s often used in products designed for sensitive skin types or those prone to irritation. By incorporating Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate, these products can offer a more comfortable and soothing experience for the user, making it a popular choice for after-sun care, anti-redness treatments, and other calming skincare solutions.
Note: the listed benefits above are exclusively based on the officially recognized and defined functions of the ingredient, as documented by the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI).
Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate is generally considered safe for topical use in cosmetic products. However, as with any ingredient, there are potential side effects and considerations to keep in mind:
Regarding individuals who are pregnant or breastfeeding, data and research on the topical usage of Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate during pregnancy are lacking. Therefore, it is advisable for these individuals to consult a healthcare professional for further advice.
Side effects and adverse reactions from Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate are relatively uncommon. Nonetheless, it is recommended to conduct a patch test before widespread usage to ensure there are no adverse reactions.
In terms of comedogenicity, Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate has a rating of 1 on a scale of 0 (totally non-comedogenic) to 5 (highly comedogenic). This low rating indicates that it is unlikely to clog pores, making it generally suitable for people prone to acne, blemishes, or breakouts.
