Article last updated: October 15, 2024
Oleic/Linoleic/Linolenic Polyglycerides, also known by its chemical name 1,2,3-Propanetriol, mono-, di- and tri-esters with 9-(Z)-ocatadecenoic acid, 9,12-(Z,Z)-octadecadienoic acid and 9,12,15-(Z,Z,Z)-octadecatrienoic acid, is a versatile ingredient commonly found in cosmetic products. This ingredient is derived from natural fatty acids, specifically oleic, linoleic, and linolenic acids, which are sourced from various plant oils such as sunflower, safflower, and flaxseed oils. These fatty acids are then esterified with glycerol, a process that results in the formation of polyglycerides.
The use of Oleic/Linoleic/Linolenic Polyglycerides in cosmetics has a relatively recent history, emerging as a response to the growing demand for multifunctional and naturally-derived ingredients. Initially, the focus was on the individual fatty acids for their beneficial properties, but advancements in cosmetic chemistry led to the development of polyglycerides, which offer enhanced stability and functionality.
The production of Oleic/Linoleic/Linolenic Polyglycerides involves a process called esterification, where glycerol reacts with the fatty acids under controlled conditions. This reaction forms mono-, di-, and tri-esters, resulting in a polymeric structure that combines the beneficial properties of each fatty acid. The final product is a versatile ingredient that can serve multiple roles in cosmetic formulations, from emollients to emulsion stabilizers.
In this section, we will delve into the officially recognized cosmetic benefits and uses of Oleic/Linoleic/Linolenic Polyglycerides:
One of the primary benefits of Oleic/Linoleic/Linolenic Polyglycerides is its binding capability. In the context of cosmetics, binding refers to the ingredient’s ability to hold together other ingredients in a formulation. This ensures that the product maintains its consistency and effectiveness throughout its shelf life. For example, in a powder foundation, this ingredient helps the powder particles stick together, preventing them from separating and ensuring a smooth application.
Oleic/Linoleic/Linolenic Polyglycerides also serves as an emulsion stabilizer. Emulsions are mixtures of oil and water, which typically don’t mix well. This ingredient helps to keep the oil and water phases from separating, ensuring a uniform texture and consistency. This is particularly important in products like lotions and creams, where a stable emulsion is crucial for the product’s performance and feel on the skin.
As an emollient, Oleic/Linoleic/Linolenic Polyglycerides helps to soften and smooth the skin. Emollients form a protective barrier on the skin’s surface, which helps to lock in moisture and prevent dryness. This makes it a valuable ingredient in moisturizers, body lotions, and other skincare products aimed at improving skin hydration and texture.
Oleic/Linoleic/Linolenic Polyglycerides also has cleansing properties. In cleansers, this ingredient helps to dissolve and remove dirt, oil, and impurities from the skin. Its ability to break down these substances makes it an effective component in facial cleansers, body washes, and makeup removers, ensuring that the skin is left clean and refreshed.
Lastly, this ingredient plays a role in controlling the viscosity of cosmetic products. Viscosity refers to the thickness or thinness of a product. By adjusting the viscosity, Oleic/Linoleic/Linolenic Polyglycerides helps to achieve the desired texture and consistency, making the product easier to apply and more pleasant to use. This is particularly important in products like serums, gels, and creams, where the right viscosity can enhance the user experience.
Note: the listed benefits above are exclusively based on the officially recognized and defined functions of the ingredient, as documented by the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI).
Oleic/Linoleic/Linolenic Polyglycerides are generally considered safe for topical application in cosmetic products. However, as with any ingredient, there are potential side effects that users should be aware of:
Regarding individuals who are pregnant or breastfeeding, data and research on the topical usage of Oleic/Linoleic/Linolenic Polyglycerides during pregnancy are lacking. Therefore, it is advisable for these individuals to consult a healthcare professional for further advice before using products containing this ingredient.
Adverse reactions to Oleic/Linoleic/Linolenic Polyglycerides are uncommon, but it is always prudent to perform a patch test before widespread usage to ensure personal tolerance.
In terms of comedogenicity, Oleic/Linoleic/Linolenic Polyglycerides have a rating of 2 on a scale of 0 to 5. This means they are relatively low on the comedogenic scale, but individuals who are prone to acne, blemishes, or breakouts should still exercise caution, as the ingredient may potentially clog pores in sensitive skin types.
